Hong Kong Edition: Black rainstorms

When an amber rainstorm seems like nbd.
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In this week's Hong Kong Edition, we unpack how a perfect storm of events led to this week's epic downpours and speak to a sex-shop owner about her new book. For The Review, we check out a restaurant elevating hawker classics that might delight even the most critical Singaporeans.

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Wetter Report

When it finally rains in Hong Kong, it pours. 

The city on Tuesday suffered a deluge of record-breaking rainfall that snarled commutes and flooded roads. The nearly 369 mm (14.5 inches) of rain more than doubled the amount seen in the entire first half of the year. It also set a high for the most rainfall in a single day for the month of August.

Even for Hong Kongers used to extreme weather, it's been a few weeks of gloomy conditions bookended by a lashing typhoon and severe rains. Anyone signed up to the Hong Kong Observatory's weather alerts experienced another kind of torrent: More than a dozen pings during the overnight hours into Tuesday alone warned of everything from heavy rains to thunderstorms and landslides. 

All the ingredients were in place for the record bucketing, said Jonathan Chui, the CEO of Macau-based startup Knoweather who holds a doctorate in meteorology. The southwest monsoon delivered an endless stream of moist air to Hong Kong, which rose and met cooler air in the mid-layer of the atmosphere, colliding to fuel thunderstorms and heavy precipitation, he explained.

Add to that the South China coast's geography. Its indented shoreline and hilly terrain "slows the airflow, causing it to pile up like a traffic jam," Chui said, leading to intense, prolonged rain in one area.

A stranded minibus in Central. Photographer: Emily Yamamoto/Bloomberg

At a research conference about extreme rain held in Hong Kong on Tuesday — rained out and moved to Zoom, aptly — participants quipped about the weather. One researcher switched up his talk to directly address the deluge, explaining how two different types of airflow can drive heavy rain in South China — precisely of the kind we experienced this week. Others laid out ways cities can try to stay a step ahead of extreme rains. One civil engineer from Hong Kong's Drainage Services Department showcased a new flood risk model that can simulate potential inundations down to street level.

Maybe that spirit of preparedness marks a silver lining. Heavy rains elsewhere this week have led to catastrophic damage and loss of life, including in the Indian Himalayas where flash floods washed away an entire village and killed at least four people. 

It's also worth noting that the rain in Hong Kong was not nearly as extreme as September 2023's historic downpour, when the city reported 75 landslides and videos of cars completely submerged by floods went viral. This time around, the total number of reported landslides reached 21.

"We do appear to have gotten off quite lightly given the sustained period of rainfall we've experienced," said Stuart Millis, an engineering geologist and associate director at engineering services firm Arup. He credits that to the city's investments in slope management over the past 50-plus years. "We do have probably the most robust slope safety system on the planet." —Mary Hui

Five Minutes With: Hong Kong's Unlikely Sex Guru

For many Hong Kong locals, sex remains a taboo subject. Vera Lui, 38, set out to change that when she opened her store, Sally Coco Intimate Lifestyle — now marked by a pink neon sign along Central's iconic escalators — to sell everything from vibrators and lingerie to menstrual cups.

More than a decade later, Lui continues her mission to improve sex education with her YouTube channel, which has more than 106,000 subscribers. A co-founder of the Women's Festival in Hong Kong, which promotes gender awareness and equality, she also regularly speaks at schools and conferences. We caught up with Lui to discuss changing attitudes toward sex in Hong Kong, the future of Sally Coco, and her new book The Worry-Relief Erotic Store (in Chinese), which published July 9. —Amber Tong

What motivated you to start an intimate lifestyle store? And who is Sally Coco?

I grew up without any sex education. That in itself is a type of sex education. It tells you that sex cannot be discussed. Growing up, I didn't have anyone who would teach me about these things, or someone I could ask questions. So when it came time to think of a name for my business, I created a fictional character named Sally. Sally is the person I didn't have when I was young, who could share accurate sexual knowledge with me, who could listen to my troubles, my secrets, my problems. She is non-judgmental, not just regarding sex, but in general.

Vera Lui holding her book at her Sally Coco store. Photographer: Jack Wong

Who are your customers?

If you're asking about demographics, it's 25- to 50-year-old men and women. Most are women, but many men visit, too. They span different sexual backgrounds: some lesbian, some gay, some transgender. Most are straight, but it's a broad mix. It's people who want their intimate lives to be a bit better. They may be experiencing some challenges and suffering, and they come to seek a solution, or a space to talk about this. Sometimes they don't come to shop. They come to talk about their feelings.

Has Hong Kong's environment for sexual education improved?

I think it's better but not for everyone. People with awareness have already come a long way. They will seek out information and have a positive attitude on sex. But the people who fit that description  make up roughly 30% of the 7 million people who live in Hong Kong — and many have moved away. The remaining 70% don't read about these things, so they really wouldn't be exposed. I often feel the divergence is growing.

Sally Coco started as an online shop and had four locations at its peak. Now you are back to one shop in Central. How has the business environment changed?

When the stock market was up, people would come in during lunch time with a certain vibe to them. These past few years, you know what the market is like: People don't seem to be in the mood for consumption. 

Our business was good during the pandemic. In fact, it was the peak for our business because when people were trapped at home and quarantined with nothing to do, they would order a couple of toys. And people were going on staycations. Starting in the second half of 2021, I started seeing sales fall. It was worse than pre-pandemic. Every week I had a customer come to me and say, "I'm moving overseas, should I put my toy in my hand carry or check-in luggage?" And those were loyal customers who appreciated and supported local shops. All of them said they were leaving. 

What does the future hold for Sally Coco?

These past few years I started spending more time learning about other areas of women's health, whether that's mental health, other physical health, or menopause. If this brand is to move forward, we should expand our scope — not just focus on sexual health, but rebrand as a women's health platform.

What do you want readers to take away from your new book, The Worry-Relief Erotic Store?

It contains 25 stories from my encounters with customers. Their stories have inspired my philosophy on sexuality, intimacy, love and self-love. Working here gives us a privileged position to see the most intimate side of humanity. Not many people have this opportunity to hear others talk about their sex lives.

So I hope when people read these stories, it can bring more freedom to their intimate lives. Because many people are trapped in assumptions of what sex should be like ... I hope reading this can untangle some of those knots in their hearts.

The Review: A Singaporean Gem in Hong Kong

As Singaporean expats here can attest, life in Hong Kong is a cycle of hope and disappointment when it comes to seeking out the flavors of our homeland. So when I heard that chef Barry Quek of Whey fame had opened a new, casual eatery where hawker classics like bak chor mee and hae mee would be offered, I made a reservation at Uncle Quek faster than one can say: "Singaporean bak kut teh is better than Malaysian bak kut teh."

The bad news first: Uncle Quek's bak kut teh, the pork rib soup that's beloved in the region, is closer to the Malaysian style. That is, the soup is more herbal rather the peppery — a choice the chef told us was made for Hong Kongers' sensitive palates. Fortunately, everything else is fantastic, with a lineup that nails the original flavors of traditional dishes while elevating them beyond street food with richer and higher-quality ingredients.

Bak kut teh Photographer: Nicholas Wong/Uncle Quek

While its mission is mostly to faithfully recreate Singaporean classics, the few experimental touches speak to an exciting, Whey-like energy in the kitchen. The cereal fried chicken is a sweet-and-crunchy nod to the cereal prawn, and the lobster laksa is a decadent take that infuses a touch of lobster bisque into an already indulgent dish (and luckily hasn't had its flavors tamed for local palates). I was, however, disappointed there were no dessert options on the menu, which only underscores how quickly the restaurant won my trust. 

Uncle Quek is run by chef Elvin Lam, a Barry Quek protégé who told us that he was conscious of its price point, which is slightly above other lunch options around Lyndhurst Terrace. We spent HK$798 ($102) on a heavy dinner for two. The eighth floor location also won't benefit from any walk-in traffic. So consider this a plea from Singaporeans in Hong Kong who have mourned the demise of Bibi & Baba in Wan Chai and even the Toast Box locations on Hong Kong Island: Let's help Uncle Quek stay alive.

Uncle Quek Photographer: Nicholas Wong/Uncle Quek

The vibe: Uncle Quek's minimalist, honey-colored wood interior is pretty much exactly like the other restaurants in the same group, which include Whey and Korean-French fusion restaurant Sol in the same building. The open kitchen and concrete flooring underscore its status as one of the group's most casual, affordable eateries.

Can you conduct a meeting here? Not if there are spirited diners near you, as the acoustics of the space tend to magnify noise. 

Who's next to you: I heard Singaporean (or Malaysian) accents around me, of course, and the other diners were mostly casually dressed young couples or groups of friends — quite a different vibe from the sleek party crowd downstairs.

Hokkien mee Photographer: Nicholas Wong/Uncle Quek

What we'd order again: The lobster laksa (HK$248) is quite the star, though the uninitiated may want to split a portion given its richness and spiciness. The chefs also nailed the wet-but-not-soupy noodle texture and flavors in the hokkien mee (HK$188), a stir-fried noodle dish, and bak chor mee (HK$168), noodles with minced pork. While the "wok hei" charred flavor of true Singaporean street food was missing, I'm grading on a curve given the restaurant's induction hobs. The achar salad (HK$55) was deliciously tart and nutty — the complexity illustrating its superiority among spicy Asian salads. And it might be worth ordering the bak kut teh (HK$68) just for the perfectly fried dough fritters that it comes with — and fine, that Malaysian herbal flavor does go well with its Zinfandel (HK$88). 

Need to know: Uncle Quek is on the sixth floor of 8 Lyndhurst Terrace and is open from noon to 9 p.m. every day except Sunday, when it is closed. Reservations need to be made via a finicky website and are hard to manage or cancel, which I've been told they're working to fix. —Rachel Chang

Read our reviews of Uncle Quek's sister restaurants: fine-dining Singaporean spot Whey and Korean-French fusion eatery Sol.

Are there any restaurants you'd like us to review? Drop us a line at [email protected].

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