Hong Kong Edition: Shenzhen commute

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In this week's Hong Kong Edition, we dissect what a couple of new MTR projects mean for commuters, and celebrate the birthday of the beloved baby pandas by talking to one of their caretakers. For the Review, we check out a new lasagna-obsessed restaurant in Sheung Wan.

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Train Together

This is what Hong Kong's future may look like.

Tom Liu commutes 2.5 hours to Hong Kong Airport every time he's scheduled to work a flight. But the cheaper living in Shenzhen makes it worth it for the 33-year-old flight attendant.

And that's the vision behind MTR's latest mega projects. The Northern Link and the Hong Kong-Shenzhen Western Rail Link are meant to make trips like Liu's quicker, smoother and more appealing. The prospect is tantalizing: offering people the option of cheaper living across the border, while still working — and playing — in a global center for finance, gastronomy and culture.  

The symbolism, as a manifestation of the city's integration with China, is also hard to escape: the shiny tracks weaving the metropolises together ever more tightly.

The long-discussed projects are gaining momentum. MTR and the government inked a financing agreement last month for the first of two phases of the Northern Link that will cost HK$31.4 billion ($4 billion). The final bill for the two projects is yet to be determined. 

Straight ahead. Photographer: Bertha Wang/Bloomberg

Targeted to open around 2034, the plans certainly don't lack ambition. That, too, hinges on closer cooperation with the mainland. MTR plans to lean on Chinese expertise to speed up construction after its recent big builds were tainted by scandals. The company also hopes that will help it avoid the cost blowouts that have dented its historic reputation as the gold standard for rail projects.

The 18-kilometer (11.2-mile) Northern Link is already under construction and will connect Kam Sheung Road with Kwu Tong. An offshoot will go into Shenzhen, forming a new integrated border crossing by train. The Western Link will start in Hung Shui Kiu and end in Qianhai Bay, an emerging finance and technology hub in Shenzhen where HSBC and Cathay Pacific are among companies that have recently opened offices. 

For commuters like Liu, the upgraded infrastructure would even be worth higher prices.

"If I have a new method to get to the airport, actually I would be willing to pay more if it is faster," said Liu, one of dozens of newly hired Cathay Pacific flight crew living in Shenzhen.

And it would also make those day trips even easier. Already, Hong Kongers have been hopping over the border in record numbers, and the city's retail, dining and entertainment scene, wounded by Shenzhen's affordable luxury, will face an even stiffer challenge.

A popular route. Photographer: Paul Yeung/Bloomberg

For Beijing, the rail projects are a key piece of reviving the Hong Kong economy and reshaping the northern-most parts of the city. The planners envision the natural landscape of the New Territories mirroring the dense district of apartments and offices across the border, just a stone's throw from the gleaming towers of Shenzhen. 

Once the new rail links open, the journey will be a mere minutes, not counting any border control lines. And the next chapter of Hong Kong history will be that much closer. —Danny Lee

Risky Business

Hong Kong's financial industry is entering a lucrative but risky era on the front lines of China's economic rivalry with the US. Fueled by a surge in capital raising by Chinese corporate giants like battery maker CATL and BYD, business is finally booming for dealmakers. Bankers and lawyers say they are busier than they've been in years, with the frenetic pace forcing them to turn down clients and hire staff to ease the load.

But the city has become inextricably tied to President Xi Jinping's priority industries, risking backlash from Washington politicians who are increasingly questioning where Hong Kong ends and China begins. Read our Big Take here.

Chart of the Week: Elon's Empire

Is Grok the top app in Hong Kong? Elon Musk proclaimed as much. Rankings from app data firm Sensor Tower indeed show that the xAI chatbot has risen to the top spot in the city among free apps in recent days both in the App Store and Google Play. The caveat is of course that services like OpenAI's ChatGPT, Google's Gemini and Anthropic's Claude aren't available in the city.

Sensor Tower also points out that DeepSeek has been downloaded 1.4 million times in Hong Kong this year, more than any other app and about twice Grok's count. And DeepSeek has about 840,000 monthly active users here, nearly three times Grok's. So while Musk's service may be gaining momentum, it has a long way to catch up. —Newley Purnell 

Five Minutes With: The Panda Nanny

They grow up so fast!

It's hard to believe, but Hong Kong's beloved panda babies are turning one on Aug. 15. Jia Jia and De De have been stars since the moment they were born, not just attracting a stampede of visitors to Ocean Park, but also becoming a key component of the government's economic plans. We talked to Matt Leung, one of a handful of people in charge of the pair, to find out what it's like to be around the star cubs every day.  —Adrian Wong 

Leung, De De (center) and Jia Jia (bottom). Source: Hong Kong Ocean Park

What's your typical day like?

We start around 8 a.m. to clean up, prepare the food and the bamboo leaves for the pandas. The cubs spend the night with their mom,  so we also need to build up a relationship with the adult pandas, Ying Ying and Le Le, through positive reinforcement training. In the morning, we ask her to shift to another den so we can weigh the cubs.

We feed them formula twice a day. After their morning bottle, we just let them out to explore their habitat and play around. During the day, we also open the gate for the cubs to reunite with their mom so they can spend a day together, interacting with each other. At this stage, at the age of one, they will explore around their habitat by climbing trees and walking around. They also imitate their mom Ying Ying by munching or chewing the bamboo leaves beside her. They will spend time napping on a tree. At the end of the day, we get them back into the den so we can feed them.

Can you describe the personalities of the cubs?

De De is more playful and he interacts more with his mom, his sister and the caretakers. He likes to explore new things and play around. Then he will spend a long time sleeping on a tree. Jia Jia is more laid back. She prefers "me time" and to just stay in her own personal space.  She will also interact with her brother, her mom and us, but a portion of the time, she just prefers to be in her own bubble. 

We time. Photographer: Peter Parks/AFP/Getty Images

Is there anything about your job you wish people knew more about?

Visitors want to see the fun side of the animals. But we also try to educate them on what we do, like how we build a relationship with our animals through positive reinforcement training. These trainings are very helpful and very important for us to get to know the animals and their health condition. We can use the training to ask them to voluntarily participate in getting their blood sample or an X-ray. Of course, we're not starting with the cubs at this stage, they're still kids. But for the adult pandas as well as other animals in Ocean Park, we basically use the same concept of reinforcement.

A lot of people get a different appreciation for what we do when they find out that we cared for geriatric pandas who passed away, the milestones that we established with An An and Jia Jia, what we learned about them. When pandas get old they will have high blood pressure or conditions like arthritis.

Has anything surprised you about raising baby pandas?  

The most surprising thing to me is that Ying Ying gave birth at the age of 19! She's the oldest known panda to give birth for the first time. The age of 19 equals to 57 in human years. We were worried, we weren't sure if she could nurse the cubs because it's her first time and she's kind of old for a panda. But surprisingly, she showed a very strong instinct to care for the cubs. At this stage, the cubs are out in the habitat with her. She will guide them to explore different areas in the habitat. When the cubs climb up, she's always nearby, watching them on how they explore. She's a great mom.

Do you have any tips on visiting, especially for first timers who are coming to Hong Kong to see the panda cubs?

We definitely will see the most action between when the park opens at 10 a.m. and noon. But they're still growing and they have so much energy, so in the afternoon, once they wake up, they will just play around again. You should come in the morning time. Besides the cubs, that's when you can also see their dad, Le Le, on the other side of the habitat eating breakfast.

For more on global panda conservation efforts, click here to watch a conversation with the Smithsonian National Zoo's Brandie Smith.

The Review: Red Sauce Alert

A charming addition has arrived on Hong Kong's Hollywood Road. Don't be fooled by its industrial name though. The Lasagna Factory, sister restaurant to Flat Iron Steak and Picanhas', is what Italian-Americans like myself would affectionately call a red-sauce joint: a hearty, family-style dining experience born in immigrant neighborhoods in New York and Chicago. But does the food live up to that cherished standard? A colleague and I came here for lunch a few weeks after its opening to find out.

As we stepped inside, greeted by iconic red-and-white checkered tablecloths and the savory aroma of baked pasta, I suddenly sensed: I don't think we're in Sheung Wan anymore.

Per our server's recommendation, we selected the HK$128 ($16.31) weekday lunch set that, of course, features its namesake dish. We chose the beef and crab lasagnas, though mushroom is available as a vegetarian choice. I preferred the crab, a somewhat unusual yet rich concoction of carbs with a subtle seafood flavor, while my companion enjoyed the beef, with pulled slices of tender meat layered throughout the tower of pasta.

The crab lasagna and garlic bread at the Lasagna Factory. Photographer: Raymond Schillinger/Bloomberg

Both lasagnas, each served atop a layer of fresh tomato sauce, were packed with traditional flavor — not quite at my grandmother's level, but close enough to be sentimental. The breaded cheese crust added a lovely bit of contrast to the soft layers of noodles beneath.

The lunch set includes a few unique perks: unlimited salad featuring oil-tossed mixed greens and garlic bread that was tasty albeit a bit dry (no matter, it was an excellent tool for cleaning up the sauce). We added the delicious tiramisu (HK$28), which, like the other dishes, is served from a family-style casserole, and were offered complimentary limoncello, a refreshing antidote to the unavoidably heavy meal. Our total bill came to HK$327, an incredible value given how stuffed we left the factory.

You can have as much as you want. Photographer: Raymond Schillinger/Bloomberg

The vibe: On the Italian spectrum, think more Goodfellas than Gucci, down to the tablecloths that could have been imported straight from New York City's Little Italy. A bright, spacious layout and friendly, attentive waitstaff contribute further to the unpretentious, cozy atmosphere.

Can you conduct a meeting here? It's a perfect venue for catching up with a colleague or for a fun team outing, but it may be a bit too casual for a first-time client or source meeting. Its back room can accommodate larger gatherings, and a private dining space is available upstairs as well.

Who's next to you: You can expect your typical Hollywood Road scene with a mix of local residents and tourists, though probably not transplants from Italy. With its large bar and fun vibe, it also looks like a nice casual date-night spot.

Little Italy or Sheung Wan? Photographer: Raymond Schillinger/Bloomberg

What we'd order again: The lasagna, of course. Come hungry and prepare for the inevitable food coma afterward.

Need to know: The Lasagna Factory is located at 208 Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan and is open everyday from noon to 11:30 p.m. Reservations are recommended and can be made online. —Raymond Schillinger

Read our other reviews of Italian restaurants: three-Michelin-starred Otto e Mezzo Bombana, casual Neapolitan-inspired eatery Trattoria Felino, Sabatini's upscale IFC outlet with unbeatable views and award-winning pizza spot Little Napoli.

Are there any restaurants you'd like us to review? Drop us a line at [email protected].

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